The flight arrived at Madrid airport at five pm. The journey from England had not been too tiring so the group was raring to go. To make the most of the rest of the afternoon we drove to El Pardo, a small town crossed by the River Manzanares with a host of riverside species on both banks. We parked the van next to the bridge called Puente de los Capuchinos where we saw, among others, Hawfinch, Serrin, Green Woodpecker, Black Kite, Sparrow Hawk, Tree Sparrow, Short-toed Tree Creeper, Waxbill and Penduline Tit. A brief stroll along the righthand bank towards the dam topped up the list with Red-rumped Swallow, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Common Sandpiper, Great Reed Warbler, Kingfisher, Hoopoe, Bee-eater, Golden Oriole and, although it is not a bird, a North American Mink that crossed the river and slinked into the vegetation on the other side. After a couple of hours of birding we decided to make for the hotel where we were to spend the next two nights.
Day 2, The Wheat Prairies to the Northeast of Madrid and Monte de El Pardo
Our second day had two star turns: Great Bustard and Imperial Eagle. To see the former we made our way to the prairies to the northeast of the Community of Madrid, surely one of the best points to see the giant of the steppes. With the first light of day we saw a small group of males that strutted slowly off upon spotting us. We then saw several more males but no sign of any females at all, from which we concluded that they were already sitting tight on eggs or young chicks.
In the wheat prairies we also saw Montague's Harrier, Little Bustard and Calandra Lark, plus a flock of four Black-bellied Sandgrouse, Red Kites and Griffon Vultures.
By lunchtime we had reached one of the best vantage points of the Monte de El Pardo, the hill of La Marmota, from the top of which we watched several soaring raptors, such as Monk Vulture, Goshawk, Booted Eagle, Short-toed Eagle, Kestrel and Buzzard. Other interesting species were Blue Rock Thrush, Hoopoe, Crag Martin, Thekla Lark, Sardinian Warbler, Azure Winged Magpie, Wood Lark, Woodchat Shrike and Southern Grey Shrike.
Just when we were about to leave without having glimpsed any Imperial Eagles, an adult suddenly flew over our lookout, stooping spectacularly only to climb again and then merge into the background holm oaks, sporting the snowy white patches on its shoulders. A worthy end to a great day.
Day 3, Parque Nacional de Cabañeros
At the crack of dawn we set off for the National Park called Parque Nacional de Cabañeros in the Province of Ciudad Real. We had booked the land rover tour for the afternoon so we spent the morning exploring the fringes of the park, where we saw Roller (fleetingly from our vehicle), Bee-eater, Black-eared Wheatear, Monk Vulture, Griffon Vulture, Quail, Rock Sparrow and many species most closely linked to the typical Mediterranean ecosystems, although pride of place must surely go to a pair of Black-shouldered Kites preening themselves on top of a small, dead holm oak.
After lunching in Retuerta del Bullaque we climbed into the off-road jeeps that would take us into the heart of the park. We saw practically the same species as in the morning, but the most interesting sighting was an Imperial Eagle on its customary perch. On our way back, with the sun sinking below the horizon and after a four-hour trip, we crossed the "raña" (Savannah-like landscape characteristic of the region), flushing out a host of Short-toed Larks. Near our hotel we had to brake hard to avoid running over a Red-necked Nightjar, which, trusting in its mimetic plumage, remained crouching on the tarmac. We watched the bird bewitched for a couple of minutes, spotlighted in our van headlights, before it took off and slipped into the darkness with the characteristic slow-mo beats of its long pointed wings.
Day 4, The Lakes of La Mancha
At first light we were already in Villacañas. A small group of Pin-tailed Sandgrouse took off as we got to the first hide of the Laguna Larga. From the hide we watched several Collared Pratincoles hawking insects over the lake, with the cries of Gull-billed Terns breaking the morning silence. Members of the local group Esparvel have placed rafts far out in the lake so that the terns can nest without being disturbed by farmers or busybodies.
The next stop was the lake of Miguel Esteban, where we saw our first White-headed Ducks (four drakes and one duck), some Black Necked Grebes, a small flock of Flamingos and sundry waders, especially Black-winged Stilts and Avocets.
The last lake we visited was Pedro Muñoz. Here we again saw White Headed Ducks, a drake Garganey, Whiskered Tern and Black Tern. We also discovered a Water Rail feeding on the opposite bank, though it was only properly visible in the telescope, and a male Bearded Tit deep in the reed bed.
Day 5, The Plains of Oropesa
On our way to Parque Natural de Monfragüe we stopped off in the town of Oropesa. The state hotel here houses a healthy colony of Lesser Kestrels and we were able to photograph some fledglings peeping out from the weephole vents. Here we also ticked off Collared Dove and other urban species such as House Martin, Swallow, Swift, Black Redstart, Spotless Starling...
In the nearby open grazing woods we made our way to one of the best spots for seeing Black-winged Kite. We saw only one adult perched on top of a telegraph pole, but that was more than enough. Once again we saw Turtle Doves, Bee-eaters, Hoopoes, Corn Buntings, Cattle Egret and other common species but the most exciting moment of the day came when we saw two magpies mobbing a Great Spotted Cuckoo, with such vehemence that it was forced to the ground a few metres from where we stood. As soon as it realised this was not the safest spot, it took wing and zigzagged off between the holm oaks.
Day 6, Parque Natural de Monfragüe I
On day six we arrived in the spot that probably regaled us the best moments of the whole excursion. As soon as we arrived we saw a young Golden Eagle flying over La Portilla del Tiétar. To our surprise a pair of Bonelli's Eagles appeared and drove the Golden Eagle away by stooping on it aerobatically, then to disappear behind some crags. In this fantastic spot we also saw several Black Storks and a nest with two chicks. There were also several pairs of Griffon Vultures and, lower down the cliff face, a Short-toed Eagle's nest with a sitting adult. La Portilla is renowned for its Eagle Owls and we would return at dusk to try to see them.
After eating in Villarreal de San Carlos we made our way to the bluff called Salto del Gitano where we saw dozens of Griffon Vultures, the monarchs of these skies. We also saw the first Egyptian Vultures of the trip and another two nests of Black Stork. Other species we sighted were Peregrine Falcon, Red-rumped Swallow, Crag Martin, Chough, Rock Bunting, Blue Rock Thrush, Short-toed Tree Creeper and Red Kite.
At nightfall we made our way back to La Portilla. When we arrived a group of Belgian ornithologists had spotted an adult Eagle Owl on top of a crag, preening itself in the mouth of a small cave. Later on we also saw the other member of the pair, which flew off in the dying light to disappear behind the sierra. Back in our accommodation in Torrejón El Rubio we heard the repetitive song of the Red-necked Nightjar on a couple of occasions.
Day 7, Parque Natural de Monfragüe II
Our second day in Monfragüe threw up few surprises. At first light we visited the viewpoint of La Báscula where we saw several Monk Vulture's nests. The cistus heaths were alive with Subalpine Warblers while flocks of Azure-winged Magpies flitted to and fro. Although this is a spot par excellence for viewing Imperial Eagle, we were unlucky, and since we had already seen them on earlier days we decided to move on. In other parts of the park we saw Hawfinch, Alpine Swift, Short-toed Eagle, Booted Eagle, Black Stork and the three vultures. At dusk we went back to La Portilla where we again saw the Eagle Owls, albeit perched in different spots this time.
Day 8, The Plains of Cáceres
After a hearty breakfast we set off in the morning for the plains surrounding the city of Cáceres. In the Llanos de Santa Marta de Magasca, hard by the city itself, we saw various interesting species. Besides Great Bustard, Little Bustard, Lesser Kestrel, Montague's Harrier, Roller, Black-eared Wheatear, Black-belled Sandgrouse and Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, we came upon two Stone Curlews napping in the shadow of a rock amidst a herd of sheep. The heat was unbearable by midday so we decided to beat a retreat from the open countryside and take a sightseeing stroll round the city itself, a fine example of the perfect balance struck between man-made and natural beauty, and the ideal spot to end our trip through central Spain.
Day 9, Cáceres - Madrid
On the last day there was hardly time for more as the return flight to London took off that afternoon. Passing Oropesa again on our way back to Madrid, we spotted another Black-Shouldered Kite hovering over the motorway. A final flourish to a splendid trip.
EXTREMADURA - JUNE 2001
On 2nd and 3rd of june 2001, Spainbirds made a short expedition in Extremadura for birdwatching in Sierra de San Pedro and surroundings. We stayed in Membrío, a village situated between Sierra de San Pedro and Llanos de Brozas, two of the most important areas for birds in Cáceres province. Saturday we woke up early in the morning because the high temperature (up to 35ºC) these days in Spain made the walks in field very hard.
Day 1, 2nd June: Sierra de San Pedro Range – San Vicente de Alcántara
The first day we were watching Woodchat Shrike, Azure-Winged Magpie, Hoopoe, Thekla, Crested and Calandra Lark close Salorino, another small village near of Sierra de San Pedro. When we arrive to the top of Sierra de San Pedro, a place known as Puerto Elice, was a little bit soon for watching raptors and decide to get down to the other side for recording Crag Martin, Red-rumped Swalow, Serin and Blue-rock Thrush. Suddenly, a silouette flew over trees showing a white patch on back, tipical of Bonelli’s Eagle, in fact, was an adult, but few seconds later it was dissapaired.
We were yet talking about Bonelli’s when an adult of Spanish Imperial Eagle was detected soaring very close. Undoubtely one of the most beautiful moments in weekend. We could see this impressive bird, that in this spot has a good population, during five minutes!
At 10:00 am the hot was really hard. Griffon and Black Vultures had been resting untill now but was time to look for carrion to its young. At least, we saw five Black flying with a dozen Griffon all together. In this group had two birds smaller, with rounded wings and long taliled. Again, Bonelli’s Eagle, a pair this time. In two minutes we had one of them over our heads but unfortunately the photos I did were not very good. In direction to San Vicente de Alcántara we could see Lesser Kestrels, Spanish and Rock Sparrow and a lot of tipical birds of this area as White Stork or Stone Curlew. From the road goes to San Vicente de Alcántara we could see Lesser Kestrels, Spanish and Rock Sparrow and a lot of tipical birds of this kind of landscapes as White Stork or Stone Curlew. We were for luch to Portugal and with no news backed to Membrío for sleeping. It was an amazing day.
Day 2, 3rd June: Jola & Alcorneo
Second day we decided to visit the Alcorneo and Jola area, an unkown site very good to watch forestal birds. Here the most important birds were Subalpine Warbler, Short-toed Treecreeper, Crested Tit (in a good number), Oriol (very common) Roller, Bee-eaters, Spotless Starling, Southern Grey Shrike and a beautiful pair of Short-toed Eagle, one of them with a snake in bill. In the afternoom we were travelling to Madrid but near of Caceres town we saw a Black Stork, good numbers of Black Kites and Montagu’s Harrier, Cattle Egret and a lot of Lesser Kestrel flying over the roofs of the old quarter.
BIRDS OF MALAGA - SEPTEMBER 2001
Day 1, 22 September: Desembocadura del Guadalhorce and Garganta de los Gaitanes
The morning had dawned overcast and breezy. Our intention was to visit the estuary of the River Guadalhorce although as soon as we arrived it began to spit with rain. Three Night Herons flew out from the vegetation of the first ponds we came to, two of them juveniles. Nearby we surprised a small group of Spoonbills calmly feeding alongside two young flamingos. We hardly had time to see more because the rain now began to come down so hard that it drove us back to the shelter of our vehicle. It poured down harder and harder and the roads and streets became flooded in no time. At that moment we decided to call a halt and hope for better weather the next day. Luckily it stopped raining in the afternoon and the sun came out so we were able to take a short walk along the gorge called Garganta de los Agitanes, where we saw several Griffon Vultures and glimpsed a pair of Golden Eagles. We also saw several Alpine Swifts, eking out their last days in Spain before migrating to Africa, Crag Martins, a pair of Crossbills and a few Red-rumped Swallows.
Day 2, 23 September: Desembocadura del Guadalhorce and Torcal de Antequera
La desembocadura del Guadalhorce was again our first destination of the day as we had hardly been able to see anything of this estuary the day before. Some treats awaited us. As well as at least two juvenile Audouin's Gull and one adult on the beach itself we also recorded several Mediterranean Gulls, one of them adult, the rest with first-winter plumage. Probably the high point of the morning was when a Caspian Tern flew over our heads and disappeared into the marsh vegetation. Terns were without any doubt the stars of the day. As well as the Caspian we also saw Whiskered Tern, Black Tern, Little Tern, Common Tern and Sandwich Tern. A female Kingfisher patiently bided its time on a twig staring down at the fry milling round in a tide pool. More species turned up further on: Hoopoe, Sardinian Warbler, Bee-eater, Booted Eagle...
At last we got to the spot where we'd seen Spoonbills the previous day but there was no sign of them. We did see a great variety of waders, however, such as Oyster Catchers, Avocets and Greenshanks.
In the afternoon we made our way to Torcal de Antequera where we hoped to see Bonelli's Eagle. Hardly had we begun our search when a shadow flashed across the rocks, the bird casting it then swooping up to perch on top of a crag. There it was: the majestic Bonelli's Eagle. A few metres lower down its consort awaited it, a male to judge by the size. Delighted by such early success we decided to continue our walk when four slim silhouettes up high caught our eye. They were four Black Storks on migration, doubtless set to cross the Strait in the following days.
On the roadside telegraph wires running up to the reserve's Information Centre we saw a pair of Rock Sparrows and a female Cirl Bunting, while Blackcaps and Dartford Warblers flitted about in the dog roses. Before returning we stopped off in a clearing to sum up our two birding days... while, in the distance, we heard the mournful cry of the Stone Curlew.